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There
is not only one Provence, as the novelist Colette noted,
but several. The exceptional variety of the region's landscapes is matched
by the complexity of its cultural make-up and the wealth of myths that
surround it. The Greeks colonized Provence, and planted its olives; Celts
and other northern tribes came next, and were followed by the Romans,
who made it their first "Province" outside Italy, and left there
an incomparable architectural legacy.
The official boundaries of present-day
Provence were more or less established by the end of the 19th century,
at a time when the region was acquiring an increasingly mythical dimension.
The remarkable variety of Provence is reflected in its villages, which
differed markedly in their character and architecture from one district
to another. While many villages of the mountainous areas of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
are of granite and slate, those of Alpes-Maritimes have a colorful and
dramatic Italianate look, with east-west settings, cheerful Baroque churches
and tall, brightly-coloured houses. Nonetheless, there is a type of village
which is generally thought of today as unmistakably Provencal and is principally
associated with the departments of the Var and the Vaucluse. Among
its comon charateristics are a dramatic, hill-top site, and an architecture
of russet-tiled roofs, olive-green shutters and rough-hewn, ivy-covered
masonry. More specific features include austerely simple and darkly-lit
churches, with belfries crowned with light and playful ironwork. Typical
too, are the 17th and 18th centuries fountains, shaded squares and promenades,
and the deserted cobbled lanes.
Although Provence is often referred to
now as "the cradle of modern art" the region was only "discovered"
by artists in comparatively recent times. One of the pioneers was Vincent
van Gogh who, however, showed no apparent interest in the traditional
rural world vaunted by the regional writers. It was left to van Gogh's
equally eccentric contemporary, Cezanne, one of the few important painters
actually native to Provence, to record the serene, classical beauty of
the Provencal countryside. Though little appreciated in his day, Cezanne
was the main inspiration behind the thousand of artists from all over
Europe and America who came to Provence after the First World War and
attempted to render its villages and landscapes in terms of solid, simplified
forms radiant with colour. Artist communities came to be established in
the villages of Provence. The most thriving of all the original artist
village was Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which eventually came to be one of France's
livelier centres of contemporary art. Tourists and "foreign"
settlers have followed in the footsteps of the artists and, in recent
years, have turned their attention increasingly to the Provence. Village
life there has come to be widely seen as a civilized ideal, inspiring,
for instance, a taste for a simple, informal style of daily existence.
An interesting aspect of this phenomenon has been the current fashion
for the once despised oil and garlic based simplicity of Provencal village
cooking.
The new settlers in Provence have helped
to revive the most beautiful villages of the region, while often promoting
a rural ideal no less mythical than that of writers such as Frederic Mistral
and Marcel Pagnol. The
image of Provence as a "blessed land" has made over the past
few years a greater impact than ever, and continues to detract from the
true complexity and cultural riches of the region's villages. Yet, the
sheer beauty of these villages and their settings is such as to make one
understand how myths are formed and sustained.
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